The paar is woven first, in gold zari, because everything above it has to line up with it.
A jamdani motif is not drawn anywhere. The weaver carries it in her head, one thread at a time, row after row.
UNESCO lists the traditional art of jamdani weaving as intangible cultural heritage of humanity.
A plain sari is quick. A dense jamdani can take months. We pay our weavers for the pattern they carry, so the hardest work is the best paid, and every label carries the weaver's name.